Merino Granny square blanket
Amanda Hurrell Eight-by-Six©
This pattern is available as an ad free pdf version via here
Sizes and Materials List
Hook Size UK 4mm (I used @pedrosplaques polymer clay rainbow sets and needle minder)
Yarn: Debbie Bliss Rialto DK 100% extrafine merino wool supersoft that comes in 37 colours. My pattern includes some now discontinued colours that were available in my stash.
105m / 50g ball
tension: 22 stitches to 30 rows (10cm x 10cm square)
finished size: 92 x 132 cm approx
Merino is the softest and loftiest of all the sheep wools, and Debbie Bliss Rialto DK combines those beautiful properties with a firm twist that brings great stitch definition. This yarn is a workhorse that will last and last. It’s a great choice for family knits and luxurious enough for all your favourite DK weight projects. I’ve chosen this yarn for my granny square blanket to give you a soft squishy blanket that will last for years.
Wash care instructions: machine washable 40 deg, cool tumble dry, cool iron, can be dry cleaned. Wooden buttons are not normally machine washable, a great tip is to remove them before washing and just sew back in place once the cushion cover is dry. If making this for a gift tell the recipient and include some spare yarn to sew them back in.
Colours (plus some oddments of Fyberspates Vicacious DK)
Mustard (99)
Sea Green (81)
Mint (54)
Oyster (discontinued)
Ecru 02
Camel 67
Sea (80)
Ocean (72)
Sky (discontinued)
Mallard (82)
Basil (53)
Mint (54)
Grey (4)
Stone (6)
Teal (20)
Vintage Pink (66)
Duck Egg (19)
Mauve (discontinued)
Wisteria (102)
Pale Pink (65)
Apple (9)
Rose (76)
Lilac (85)
Camel (67)
Tips & Notes
One great tip I learnt on my crochet journey is to flip your work on each row. This is a great way to keep your granny square, well square and not wonky. It works like magic and since using this method I’ve never looked back. To do this you flip over your square so that the previous row and join are now in the bottom left hand corner of the square (wrong side facing you) and you start the next row in the top right of the square.
On the first and subsequent rounds I chain 1 in the corners between the tr clusters. To keep the stitches closer together, I don’t chain in-between the treble clusters along each side.
Abbreviations
ch = chain
ss = slip stitch
dc = double crochet
tr = treble
htr = half treble (for border)
Gauge: crochet to your own comfortable gauge, it’s a fun, relaxing way to make a simple, stunning granny square blanket. Grab yourself a coffee and off you go.
Skill Level: beginner and includes join-as-you-go (JAYG) tutorial with step by step pictures and instructions
Pattern Instructions
This pattern is written in U.K. terms and we will be using the basic granny square pattern for this blanket. It’s an easy pattern for beginners and loved by experienced crafters too. Making granny squares is very satisfying and when making multiple granny squares you can make this simple yet effective vintage inspired blanket. There are many variations of the granny square, this is my method. My new pattern includes a join-as-you-go (JAYG) tutorial with step by step pictures and instructions
Let’s start (you will make 70 squares in total)
You will need to make 70 individual granny squares (to round 4, you will be joining on round 5) using the method as described below. There is something quite satisfying looking a neat stack of granny squares. You can use a combination of the colours I have used; this gives the blanket a vintage feel, use what colours you have in your stash.
Make the foundation round/circle Slip knot your yarn and insert onto your 4mm hook. Using your first colour Ch 4 stitches, insert hook into first chain and slip stitch to first chain to make a circle.
Round one Ch2 (this will count as your first tr, I think its neater than starting ch3) making sure to crochet over the tail from previous round1: 2tr, ch1, *3tr, ch-1* repeat 3 times. Slip stich (ss) to join round You’ve completed your first round and your square should look like this (see photo below)
Round two Flip square. Change colour Ch3 in one of the ch-2 spaces from the previous round (this will count as your first tr) 2tr, ch1, 3tr (no chain) *(3tr, ch1, 3tr) in next ch-2 space *repeat 3 times. You should now have 4 corners. You’ve completed your second round and your square should look like this. (SEE PHOTO GRID BELOW).
Round three Flip square. Change colour and join in right-hand corner ch-2 space (reverse of Round 2) ch 3 (this will count as first tr) 2tr, ch1, 3tr, 3tr (in next 2-ch space=side), 3tr ch1 3tr in next chain space, 3tr, repeat 3 times then slip stitch to third chain where you started. You have completed round 3 and your square will look like this. (SEE PHOTO GRID BELOW).
Round four Flip square. Change colour and join in right-hand corner ch-2 space (reverse of Round 3) ch3 (this will count as first tr) 2tr, ch1, 3tr, 3tr (in next 2-ch space), 3tr ch1 3tr in next chain space, 3tr, repeat 3 times then slip stitch to third chain where you started.
I have used one colour for each of the rounds alternating to give a vintage look. The picture above is to show you what all four rounds look like.
Sew in all the ends as you go along to save the huge task at the end.
Join as you go method (JAYG)
My tutorial below should help you along with the joining method I use for joining all my granny squares together. This is an example of the method I use to join my granny squares, you may find other methods searching the internet. If you have any questions, please do contact me via my Instagram account. (eightbysix)
· Your first granny square (this is called the working square) you will have made to round 5. Now you will start to join your first two squares together using the joining colour (of your choice). The second granny square (the joining square) you will already have added the first treble clusters up to the first second corner (as shown in picture 1)
· Insert your hook into the corner space of your second square (the joining square) and ss into the corner and ch1 as shown in picture 2
· Make a tr3 cluster back into the same corner on (the joining square) to complete your corner cluster (see photo 3 below)
· In the next space on your working square (between clusters) ss and ch1 as shown in (picture 4 below)
· Make a tr3 cluster in the next space on your joining square as shown in (picture 5 below)
· Insert hook into your working square and ss into the next space and ch1 (see picture 6 below)
· Insert hook and ss and ch1 into the space on your working square after the last tr3 cluster (see picture 8 below)
· Make a tr3 cluster into the next space on your joining square (see picture 9 below)
· Insert hook and ss and ch1 into the space after the last tr3 cluster on your working square (see picture 10 below)
· Make a tr3 cluster into the next corner space on your joining square (see picture 11 below)
· Insert hook and ss and ch1 into the opposite corner of your working square (picture 12 below)
· Make a tr3 cluster into the corner space on your joining square to complete the corner (picture 13 below)
Continue to finish your joining granny square with the joining colour (of your choice), tr3 into each of the remaining spaces and ss to close the granny square. Sew in your ends at this stage to make it easier to join the next square (see picture 14 below)
Continue to join each granny squares using the JAYG method shown in my tutorial pictures (1 – 14). Remember to ch1 into each corner before completing your tr3 cluster into the opposite corner.
When you want to join another square add round 5 joining colour to the first corner and ch1 (as shown in picture 1). Place the working square next to the joining square and follow my steps to join it.
Picture 15 below shows joining the 4th square to the first 3.
· Work to your first second corner, follow pattern instructions above to complete your square
Simple Edging
I like a bold simple border and mustard was the obvious choice for my latest pattern. Once you have joined all 70 squares you are ready to start the border.
Round 1 join your colour (I’ve used sea blue) to any corner on the right side of your work. Ch3 (counts as first stitch) then htr1ch2 htr2 into the first corner, htr into each stitch until you reach the next corner, htr2 ch2 htr2 to complete the second corner. Continue to follow this until you reach the beginning, ss to close.
Round 2 using mustard ch3, htr2 into the first corner, htr into each stitch until you reach the next corner, htr3 (you may want to put a stitch marker in here so that can find the corner for the next row, htr into each stitch until you reach the next corner, htr3 and continue until all 4 sides have been completed.
Round 3 using mustard ch3, htr2 into the first corner, htr into each stitch until you reach the next corner, htr3 into the corner (you may want to put a stitch marker in here so that can find the corner for the next row. htr into each stitch until you reach the next corner, htr3 and continue until all 4 sides have been completed.
Round 4 using mustard ch3, htr2 into the first corner, htr into each stitch until you reach the next corner, htr3 into the corner (you may want to put a stitch marker in here so that can find the corner for the next row. htr into each stitch until you reach the next corner, htr3 and continue until all 4 sides have been completed.
Finishing
Weave in all ends, I don’t block my blankets.
Credits
My crochet journey started 8 years ago when my dad was first diagnosed with cancer and my love of crochet took over my life. I love to make things and don’t like over complicated designs or constructions and came up with this simple blanket pattern. Once you’ve made one, you’ll want to make lots more.
Pattern and photos by Amanda Hurrell, Eight-by-Six©
You are welcome to use my pattern to make cushions to sell, but please do not copy the pattern Please credit me back with eightbysix, thank you.
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